Perfect Days — Moloka'i — More Activities

Southwest Beaches

From a vacation rental base on the West End, you can take mountain bike excursions to Kaupoa, the beautiful white sands of Kanalukaha Beach, Kapukuwahine Beach, Kahalepohaku Beach, and Kamaka’ipo (and its Soda Pop pool, safe for swimming). Except for Kaupoa, these beaches are not part of Moloka’i Ranch. No one can give you permission to beachcomb or have romantic moments on these pristine, beautiful, secluded beaches, but no one will bother you. Just don’t think about swimming because no one will rescue you either.

Vacation Rentals

One of the most enticing aspects of Moloka’i’s undervalued west coast is accommodation prices and real estate values. About a mile and a half before Maunaloa, a turnoff from the highway on the right leads down Kaluakoi Rd. to several condo developments, as well as most of the western side's beaches. A block down Lio Pl., you'll find Paniolo Hale, a very nice 77-unit condominium complex. Eighteen of the units are in the rental pool, and many of the rest are available through Friendly Isle Real Estate or the Directory at the Moloka’i Visitors' Association.

Most of these units are well-furnished condos that feel like houses, all with full kitchens and spacious living rooms, and some with screened lanais. This is the best value on the West End: for example, a 1-br, 2-ba apartment in Paniolo Hale rents for $70-$80 per night. Also consider an oceanfront or oceanview at Moloka’i Beachfront Condosfor $99-$109/nt. fronting on beautiful Kepuhi Beach.

Across the street from the Kaluakoi Villas, on Kepuhi Beach Rd., sits Ke Nani Kai, another condo complex with slightly smaller rooms than Paniolo Hale. It's a nice place to stay if you can take advantage of one of the many deals offered online. (800-535-0085). Kaluakoi Villas are fairly well maintained, but a bit pricey for what you get. Internet specials can save you 20% or more. (800-552-2721)

Maunaloa
You can’t miss Maunaloa from Hwy. 460 west which, after a sudden, sharp turn uphill, becomes the main road of the town. Dole Pineapple left the island in 1975 after fifty years of production, leaving Maunaloa virtually a ghost town. Somehow, with periodic closings and reopenings, at least a couple of businesses in town have managed to survive, the Big Wind Kite Factory and the Plantation Gallery.

As you enter the town, you’ll pass a Lucky's Gas and Oil convenience store, the only gas station east of Kaunakakai, next to the Maunaloa General Store (opening until 6pm), across from the KFC Express (M-F 11am-7:30pm, Sa-Su noon-7:30pm), next door to the movieplex.  After the closing of the Village Grill, the KFC now is the only place in town to eat other than the ranch's dining room.

At the Big Wind Kite Factory and Plantation Gallery in Maunaloa, Daphne and Jonathan Socher, kite designers extraordinaire, usually can be found in their workshop surrounded by kites and windsocks of every color and design in various stages of construction. Look at their web site to see kites in the form of birds, hula dancers, Spanish galleons, insects, and other forms, and they all fly.

The Big Wind Kite Factory and the Sochers are reason enough for a visit to Maunaloa. The Sochers are a quintessential Maunaloa story – you love the place or leave it. For the Sochers, Moloka’i’s Maunaloa is a place to raise children, watch clouds go by and send kites up into the wind, maybe hunt or fish. They moved to Maunaloa in 1976 simply because they liked Moloka'i's simple lifestyle which resonated with making and flying kites as a life and career. Another important consideration for locating Big Wind Kite in Maunaloa is that it’s a windy place, ideal for kiteflying classes.

The Socher’s Plantation Gallery features local handicrafts such as milo wood bowls, locally made T-shirts, Hawai'i-themed sandblasted glassware, baskets of lauhala and other fibers, and Hawaiian-music CDs. Bali is another love of the Sochers and the Plantation Gallery has many Balinese handicrafts, from jewelry to clothing and fabrics.

Hiking & Bicycling Options
The West End of Moloka’i provides hiking trails that pass little known Hawaiian cultural sites where, on guided hikes with Catherine and Lawrence Aki, the history and legends of Moloka’i become alive. The Aki excursions combine moolelo (storytelling) and oli (chant) with hiking tours to sacred shrines and temples, ancient adze quarries and petroglyph sites. The same trails are excellent for hiking and biking on your own. For example, the 500-year-old trail starting at the Lodge and ending at Kaupoa Beach goes from 1,100’ to sea level in a relatively short bike ride or a downhill trek to a dip in the ocean.

All of your hiking and biking tour options in West Moloka’i are available through Moloka’i Ranch Outfitters Center in Maunaloa town. Moloka’i Ranch OutfittersCenter rents every kind of equipment imaginable and offers dozens of activities including hikes of various difficulties, sea kayaking, and learn-how-to-lariat-a-steer paniolo lessons. For information and reservations, call 888-729-0059.

Mountain Bicycling
You won't get trampled by a stampede of bikers to Moloka’i, but the secret is finally out about the island's terrific mountain biking opportunities, thanks to magazine articles and word-of-mouth about a multitude of scenic dirt trails within the boundaries of huge Moloka’i Ranch. The best mountain biking in the state is on the trails within and around Moloka’i Ranch. Moloka’i's mountain biking terrain has something for everyone, beginners to advanced. (888-729-0059).

Imagine over 50,000 acres with trails that weave up and down and across the hills to spectacular beaches. In addition to mountain biking on the Ranch it’s also great along the north coast, for example, the Naiwa Sea Cliffs Trail, a 15-mile ride for advanced mountain bike riders along sea cliffs to spectacular vistas overlooking the Kalaupapa Peninsula.

One of the few changes in West Moloka’i’s landscape is color-coded bike paths. That’s not so bad considering what’s happened elsewhere in the outside world. The Moloka'i Ranch Activities Center, across the road from the Kite Factory, is responsible for “defacing” the landscape with hundreds of miles of color-coded trails: green for beginners, blue for intermediates, orange for experts and red for daredevils.

The Ranch no longer keeps safari animals like Axis deer, giraffes, wildebeests or rhinos that used to roam freely. Instead, mountain bicyclers roam the Ranch along with about 7000+ head of cattle. For bicyclers it’s a perfect end to the day to return to Kaupoa campground, about nine miles away by dirt road from Maunaloa, on a lovely beach where, kind of like an early Club Med facility, "tentalows" provide a solar-powered, steel-and-canvas structure with a lanai, restroom, shower, fan, and bed.

More Outdoor Activities

In addition to 4WD excursions, riding mules, mountain biking, hiking, and sea kayaking, Molokai provides opportunities for snorkeling and diving, bodyboarding, bodysurfing, windsurfing and surfing, horseback riding, and sailing.

Snorkeling and diving
Good snorkeling can be found--when conditions are right--at many of Moloka’i's beaches. For snorkeling gear and guidance on Molokai’s best snorkeling spots, contact: Moloka’i Rentals and Tours (553-5663), Moloka’i Outdoor Activities and Moloka’i Fish & Dive. During calm summer months, Moloka’i Outdoor Activities, Fun Hogs Hawaii (567-6789), Bill Kapuni's Snorkel & Dive, Kaunakakai (553-9867) and Moloka’i Action Adventures (558-8184) offer snorkeling excursions for a couple of hours plus equipment and several of these operators offer whale-watching in season. Bill Kapuni's Snorkel & Dive also offers a good choice of diving excursions.

In summer, roughly May to mid-September, when the Pacific Ocean calms down, for snorkeling you can drive out to (or snorkeling excursions will take you to):

• Kawakiu Nui Beach, Ilio Point, and Pohaku Mauliuli Beach (West End)
• Kapukahehu (Dixie Maru) Beach (West End)
• Murphy (Kumimi) Beach Park (East End)

Bodyboarding, Bodysurfing, Windsurfing & Surfing

This is more of a warning than equipment rental advice. Only experienced bodysurfers should even think about bodyboarding or bodysurfing at Papohaku, Kepuhi, and Halawa, and only with extreme caution due to the strength of rip currents and undertows. Boogieboards with and without fins can be rented from Moloka’i Rentals and Tours and Moloka’i Outdoor Activities, which also offer surfboards for rent, surfing lessons and windsurfing lessons.

Horseback Riding

One- or two-hour horseback rides in the hills of 14,000-acre Puu O Hoku Ranch or on deserted beaches, and to a waterfall with a hike all are choices for the Ranch’s guests (558-8109).

Sailing

Moloka’i Charters (553-5852) offers a variety of sailing trips on Satan's Doll, a 42-foot sloop: 2-hour sunset sails for $40 per person; a half-day of sailing and whale-watching, $50; a full-day sail to Lana’i with swimming and snorkeling, $90 (including lunch, cold drinks, snacks, and all equipment); and whale-watching cruises, mid-December to mid-March.

Accommodations

The Hotel Moloka’i’s units with kitchenettes are convenient to Kaunakakai.

Wavecrest Resort -- located on a lagoon overlooking Maui at MM13, has some of the best rental deals on the island, especially when you stay for a week and rent from individual owners. Otherwise, its units are leased through Friendly IslandRealty.

Marc Moloka’i Shores offers large one- and two-bedroom units in a tropical garden complex with great views. 

Marc Ke Nani Kai Resort, located in the Kaluakoi Resort, offers one- and two-bedroom condo units with lots of space, complete kitchens, washer/dryers, VCRs, and lanais.

Vacation Rentals

For a comprehensive list of nearly all the vacation rentals available on Moloka’i, pick up an Accommodations Directory at the Moloka’i Visitors' Association, 28 Kamoi St. in Kaunakakai. Also contact two realty companies that are very active in the vacation rental market all over Moloka’i: Friendly Island Realty (800-600-4158) and Swenson Real Estate (800-558-3648).

Examples of Moloka’i Vacation Rentals

Country Cottage at Pu'u O Hoku Ranch--Take the kids to a working cattle ranch! Pu'u o Hoku ("Star Hill") has plenty of room for kids to spread out and play, plus its own secluded, private beach. If you have a really big family (or you're staging a family reunion), there's an 11-room lodge on the property, too.

Dunbar Beachfront Cottages--These private two-bedroom cottages are located on the beach in the lush East End. Each cottage sits on its own secluded beach and features a complete kitchen, washer/dryer, VCR, large deck, and breathtaking views (great for watching whales in winter).

Paniolo Hale – One of Moloka’i's most charming lodgings, and probably its best value, be sure to ask about discounted weekly rates and special condo/car packages when making reservations. The two-story, old Hawaii ranch-house design is airy and homey, with oak floors and walls of folding-glass doors that open to huge screened verandas, doubling your living space. The one- and two-bedrooms come with two bathrooms. Some units have hot tubs on the lanai. All are spacious, comfortably furnished, and well equipped, with full kitchens and washer/dryers. Units overlook Kaluakoi Golf Course, a green barrier that separates these condos from the rest of Kaluakoi Resort. Out front, Kepuhi Beach is a scenic place to walk and beachcomb, although the seas are too hazardous for most swimmers. A pool, paddle tennis, and barbecue facilities are on the property, which adjoins open grassland countryside.

A’ahi Place – An excellent central location to explore Central and East Moloka’i and yet right near Kaunakakai, Meredith Potts’ cottage is set on a hill, surrounded by tropical plants, flowers, and fruit trees, with two lanais. The bedroom includes two full-size beds. Continental breakfast includes Moloka’i coffee, fresh baked goods, and fruit from the garden. Don’t look for a TV or phone, there are none, which make A’ahi Place really quiet and peaceful. (553-8033)

Aloha Beach Cottage -- This Hawaiian-style beach house sits right on the white-sands of Waialua Beach on the southeast coast. Ideal for families, this two-bedroom has plenty of space, a large living/dining/full kitchen area that opens out to a big porch, VCR and videos, beach gear, and close enough to the Neighborhood Store for convenient shopping and to dash out for impulse stuff (888-828-1008).

Hale Aloha -- a beautiful 4-br/3-ba home (800-665-6524)

Hale Kawaikapu beautiful Honomuni Beach on the southeastern shore, 2-br house and cottage (689-4367).

Hale Pukoo -- beautiful property on the beach (588-0808).

Ka Hale Mala B&B -- Near MM5 outside of Kaunakakai (7 Kamakahana Pl.), this large first floor, 4-room unit sleeps four and has a private entrance through the garden. Cheryl’s breakfasts, served upstairs on the lanai, especially the pancakes and breads, are as good as you’ll get on Moloka’i (or at any B&B) and well worth the extra $. Jack and Cheryl Corbiell also can supply a couple of bikes, snorkel and picnic gear. (553-9009).

Kamalo Plantation & Moanui Beach House B&B – A beach house with two bedrooms, king-size beds and 1½ baths and a cottage with a king bed, fully-equipped kitchen, plus breakfast (fruit basket, home-baked bread, tropical fruit juices, tea, and coffee), are set in a 5-acre tropical garden, located right across the street from a secluded white-sand cove beach and Father Damien's historic St. Joseph Church. You can’t ask for much more at these prices. There’s no TV but you’ll have a VCR, radio, and CD and cassette player. The property is near the start of the prettiest part of the road to Halawa Valley and an excellent base to explore shoreline beaches and visit Pu'u O Hoku Ranch. Glenn and Akiko Foster have all of the advice you’ll need to take full advantage of Moloka’i’s attractions. (558-8326)

Kaona Beach House -- A large and well-maintained beach house with 2-br and 2- ba, 75 Ala Malama Ave., east of Kaunakakai is leased through Friendly Island Realty.

Kawela Beachfront, Ke Nani Kai, Miller House, Moloka’i Beachfront House,
Moloka’i Beach House, Palms and Pines, Papapa Plantation, Papohaku Beach House, and Puu O Hoku Ranch all can be found on the web.

Restaurants & Eateries

Hotel Moloka’i
You may not stay at the Hotel Moloka’i but, especially for a romantic evening, at least once you need to stop by for some drinks or dinner to experience the memorable, old-fashioned, other-worldly tropical ambience, torches flickering under palm trees and tiny fairy lights lining the room and the pool area. The Hotel Moloka’i also has the only nightlife east of Kaunakakai. Just remember that you’re dining here mainly for atmosphere and not culinary marvels and you’ll enjoy the fresh catch of the day or other standards on the dinner menu all the more. Open  7-10am, 11am-2pm, 6-9pm, bar until 10:30pm, 553-5347, Kamehameha V Hwy.

Kamuela’s

When Kamuela’s serves ribs as their dinner special (call 553-4286), this is the place to have dinner on Ala Malama St. Open Mon-Sat. 6:30am-3pm and 5:30-9pm. (No credit cards)

Kamo'i Snack-n-Go
A convenience store that still sells 2 scoops of delicious ice cream for only $3, Kamo’i confirms that Moloka’i still lives in another era. 28 Kamo'i St. #800. Open M-F 9am-5pm, Sat. 9am-4pm. (No credit cards)

Kanemitsu’s Bakery & Restaurant
Follow the sweet smell emanating from Kanemitsu’s Bakery and make your way to the coffee shop/restaurant for breakfast or sandwiches made with their own freshly baked apricot-pineapple, mango, onion cheese or just regular white, wheat or sweet breads. Even in the middle of the night, bread lovers engage in a “hot-bread run” at Kanemitsu's, lining up at the bakery's back door starting at 10:30pm and lasting until between 1am and 2:30am, when the bread or bakers’ energy runs out. (No credit cards)

In order to understand the addictiveness of this unique ritual, you need to know that the bread not only moves from the oven hot into faithful customers’ hands, trembling with anticipation, but you can ask for this delicious, oven-fresh bread slit down the middle and filled with butter, jelly, cinnamon, or cream cheese which, of course, melts divinely into the loaf. When later you arrive back at the hotel or vacation rental, in the middle of the night, with a look of ecstasy on your face, you better have some Kanemitsu’s bread left to share or else a very good explanation for your awaiting mate about where you’ve been and what actually happened. Restaurant, 5:30 –11:30am, bakery, 5:30am – 6:30pm, 79 Ala Malama St., Kaunakakai, 553-5855 (No credit cards)

Kualapu’u Cook House
Some people prefer to start their day with a healthy bowl of granola or Raisin Bran, fresh fruit and tea. But for the rest of us, the old wagon along Farrington Hwy., west of Hwy. 470, that unfortunately only serves take-out these days, is terrifically popular because of its huge omelets served with a side of homemade corned beef hash or, if you’re ready for it, “The Works” that unapologetically piles your plate with buttermilk pancakes, ready to be slathered in butter and maple syrup, eggs of your choice, and a generous mound of home fries. If this is not enough, and your planning a day of hiking in the Moloka’i Forest or some activity of equivalent exertion, take along a Cook House plate lunch with pork katsu or chicken and no doubt you’ll make it through the day’s adventure ordeal. Mon-Sat., 6am-2:45pm, Farrington Hwy., west of Hwy 470, Kualapu’u, 567-9655. (No credit cards)

Moloka’i Drive-in
Serves fast-food local style, including breakfast like eggs, meat, and hash browns, and plate lunches. Kamoi St., open Mon-Thurs., 6am-10pm, Fri.-Sat., 6:30am-10:30pm. (No credit cards)

Moloka’i Pizza Café
This popular eatery, no ordinary pizza joint, will be one of your favorite places on Moloka’i for the pizzas, sandwiches, fish and meat dinners, barbecued baby-back rib plates, and special menus (Sunday, prime-rib, Wednesday, Mexican and Thursday, Hawaiian). Just to show the generosity of spirit, the Moloka’i pizza (only pepperoni and cheese) recognizes that the Big Island is much bigger and more diverse with a Big Island pizza loaded with pepperoni, ham, mushroom, Italian sausage, bacon, and vegetable toppings. Not to be neglected, vegetarians will find a delicious vegetarian Maui pizza, a gyro pocket with spinach pie, and other veggie specials. Open 11am-10pm, Kahua Center, old Wharf Rd., Kaunakakai, 553-3288.

Neighborhood Store N’ Counter
What did you have in mind leaving Kaunakakai without breakfast? But as you drive along the southeast coastline towards Halawa Bay craving food, the inviting picnic tables of the Neighborhood Storemiraculously appear. Soon you’re eating an omelet and Portuguese sausage, maybe saimin, or some other breakfast special that seemingly never tasted so good. Pick up a sandwich, mahimahi plate, chicken katsu or something else for a picnic lunch either at Halawa or on the way back at one of the many lovely beaches. While at the Neighborhood Store, if your eye catches sight of someone ordering a Portuguese doughnut (deep-fried doughnut filled with ice cream), chances are that on the return trip along Hwy. 450 you’ll stop and order this memorable dessert for yourself before passing through Puko’o. 8am-6pm, 558-8498. (No credit cards)

Outpost Natural Foods
You don’t have to be a vegetarian or even overly health conscious to enjoy the burritos, “meatloaf” (oats, spouts, seeds, seasonings), mock chicken, tofu spinach lasagna and other special dishes and salads at the Outpost’s little lunch counter. For picnics or to stock up for your vacation rental, pick up some Moloka’i papayas, bananas, watermelon, and other local produce. And of course you also have the usual selection of vitamins, cosmetics, and health aids founding in health food stores. Open Sun-Fri, 10am-3pm, 70 Makaena Place, Kaunakakai, 553-3377.

Oviedo’s Lunch Counter

At the very end of Ala Malama Ave., Oviedo’s serves authentic and tasty Filipino food like crunchy roast pork and chicken papaya. Open Mon.-Fri. 10am-4:30pm, Sat-Sun. 10am-4pm. (No credit cards)

Solid Grounds Coffee Shop

Another eatery at the end of Ala Malama Ave., Solid Grounds serves specialty coffees and iced mocha (plus Internet access) early enough to cover any of your trip plans, Mon.-Sat. 5:30am-5pm. (No credit cards)

Sundown Deli
Yet another surprisingly good, reasonably priced, tiny eatery with dishes for vegetarians, Sundown Deli has only two tables, which makes it a take-out most of the time. Breakfast includes tasty standards like ham & cheese croissant and Canadian bacon, egg & cheese sandwich, fresh cinnamon rolls, the best place in town for bagel, cream cheese and lox, and their own Moloka’i-style corn bread. For lunch vegetarians and anyone else will enjoy the vegetarian quiche, vegetarian lasagna, spinach pie and other lunch specials including crab cakes or crab and avocado on a croissant, $6.50, tuna melt $5.95, club and other sandwiches like French dip, a very good Asian salad as well as other salad choices. Mon-Fri, 7am- 4pm, Sat. 10:30am - 2pm, 145 Puali Place, Kaunakakai, 553-3713.

MOLOKA’I TRAVEL INFO

As part of Maui County, Moloka’i’s emergency and useful telephone numbers are as follows:

Police: emergencies – 911; nonemergencies - 553-5355; fire department - 553-5601; Moloka’i General Hospital (Kaunakakai) - 553-5331; Post Office (Kaunakakai) - 553-5845; 24-hour ATM - Bank of Hawaii (553-3273); Moloka’i Visitors Association (Kaunakakai) - 800-800-6367 (U.S. mainland and Canada), 800-553-0404 (interisland), and local 553-3876, http://www.molokai-hawaii.com. The staff can give you all the information you need on what to see and do while you're on Moloka’i.

Moloka’i By Plane (Ho’olehua Airport)
Island Air – 800-323-3345 from the mainland or 800-652-6541 interisland,  http:// www.alohaair.com);
Moloka’i Air Shuttle - 545-4988;
Hawaiian Airlines - 800-367-5320 or 553-3644, http://www.hawaiianair.com; 
Pacific Wings - 888-575-4546 from the mainland or 873-0877 from Maui; http://www.pacificwings.com)

Moloka’i By Boat
Maui's Lahaina Harbor to Moloka’i's Kaunakakai Wharf by ferry on the Moloka’i Princess 800-275-6969 or 667-6165, http://www.mauiprincess.com.