Downhill, coastal, off-road and combinations of these bike treks for any length of time are available through Adventure Lana’i Ecocentre (565-7373) that tailors the biking experience to the level of the biker. All of their 21-speed bikes and other equipment are excellent, and guided bike trips are van-supported. You can rent your own bikes and simply get help from Ecocentre to plan your trips, which is advisable. Guided bike trips will take you to just about all of Lana’i’s most important and interesting archeological, historical and scenic sites, including the Munro Trail. Ecocentre also will drive you in a 4WD to these various sites and the Munro Trail and you can save your energy for hiking around these places.
The Stables at Koele (565-4424) offers rides for beginners and experienced riders that go where even 4WD vehicles can’t. After a few lessons of slow and easy riding, even children (at least 9) who have never ridden before will be able to join their parents or sisters and brothers on the 2-hour Paniolo Trail Ride into the hills around Koele.
Adventure Lana’i Ecocentre is a one-top shop for all of your equipment and tour needs for boogie boarding, surfing, kayaking, snorkeling and scubadiving. Ecocentre does a very good job teaching surfing. If you’re a guest at the Manele Bay or Lodge, their beach shack at Hulopoe Beach rents watersports equipment and provides complimentary Boogie Boards. If you travel to Lana’i on a Trilogy tour, snorkel equipment is part of your fee. From late December to March, Trilogy tours also provide good whale watching.
A stay on Lana’i is the perfect time and place for beginners to learn ocean kayaking in half-day increments with Ecocentre. Besides all kayak and snorkeling equipment needed, the package includes instruction on how to kayak, visits to some of Lana’i’s most beautiful coastline, stops for snorkeling, snacks and time for beachcombing. Rates are very reasonable.
Your best choices for scuba diving at Cathedrals I and II is a one-tank or two-tank dive with Trilogy Charters (http://www.tombarefoot.com/maui/trilogy_lana’i.html) or a two-tank dive organized by Adventure Lana’i Ecocentre which also has equipment to rent.
Hulopoe, the only legal place to camp on Lana’i, is a paradise for camping (except for mosquitoes). Contact the owners, Castle and Cooke Resorts (565-3978 and pay a $5 registration fee plus a charge of $5 per person, per night for one of the six campsites, each of which can accommodate up to six people. Facilities include restrooms, running water, showers, barbecue areas, and picnic tables. You can rent all kinds of camping equipment from Adventure Lana’i Ecocentre. Bring your favorite DEET insect repellent.
Seeing the island’s fascinating attractions requires driving a 4WD on dirt roads since Lana’i has less than 30 miles of paved surface. Dollar(1035 Lana’i Ave., south of Dole Park) rents Jeep Wranglers and Cherokees and also cars (restricted to paved roads). Call 800-JEEP-808 or 565-7227, open daily 7am-7pm.) You’ll find the only gas station on the island located at the Lana’i Plantation Store on the Dollar property. Be prepared for expensive gas.
You can rent safari-style 4WD Jeep Wranglers with big off-road mud tires, roof racks, A/C, snorkel gear, boogie boards, and an ice chest for somewhere over $100 per day from Adventure Lana’i Ecocentre, 338 8th St. When you make a reservation, ask about rooms for rent, if you need one. You also might consider joining one of Ecocentre’s 4WD tours along the Munro Trail, to the Garden of the Gods, and Shipwreck Beach. You can get any other kind of equipment from the folks at Ecocentre or join one of their surfing or snorkeling/diving excursions or downhill bike trips. Call 565-7373, http://www.adventurelanai.com, open Mon-Sat., 8am-5:30pm.
Restaurants & Eateries
Blue Ginger Café
This small, no-frills, moderately-priced eatery defines “local” in Lana’i City. You couldn’t ask for a more casual eatery and varied menu that fits the landscape better or that has a more pleasant view for breakfast or any meal, right across the street from Dole Park and its Norfolk Pines. The four tables on the porch of this popular local hangout are already full after 6am with workers on their way to jobs and other locals talking story. (The tiny interior gets stuffy.) Breakfast includes tasty pastries, three-egg omelets, banana or blueberry pancakes, blueberry waffles or French toast made with homemade bread, saimin and other items. Besides plate lunches, lunch might be burgers (on homemade buns), saimin, pizza, Mexican specials, mahimahi sandwiches, spam musubi, or vegetable lumpia (a Filipino treat). Popular for dinner are fish and shrimp dishes, stir-fry with mahi mahi, and stir-fried vegetables. Blue Ginger is a good place for takeout. (Gossip: I believe that the Blue Ginger is owned by the father-in-law of Kim Dupree, whose Gifts with Aloha is across the street.) 409 7th St., 6am-9pm, 565-6363. (No credit cards)
Coffee Works
If the name sounds familiar, Oahu's Ward Warehouse coffeehouse shut down after more than 25 years and moved to Lana’i City in the middle of 2002. These folks really know their island coffees, blends and flavored coffees. No surprise that the wooden deck of tiny Coffee Works, located in a former plantation house, quickly became a favorite local hangout. The store also carries a small collection of gift items. 604 Ilima, across from the Post Office, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm, Sat. 7am-2pm., 565-6962.
Formal Dining Room
As you would expect from a restaurant that annually receives top honors in Zagat’s “Millennium Edition” listings of Hawaii’s top restaurants (27 out of 30 possible points) and has been rated as the best restaurant in the state of Hawaii by Gourmet Magazine and Condé Nast Traveler, visitors come to the Formal Dining Room with the highest possible expectations for cuisine, service and décor. The restaurant lives up to that reputation and usually exceeds expectations. The octagonal restaurant and its décor perfectly reflect the country atmosphere of the entire Lodge. The restaurant is elegant, intimate and romantic, and not at all stuffy.
Each course is unique, unlike dishes you’ll taste in other restaurants in Hawaii or the mainland. The menu of Hawai'i regional cuisine changes seasonally and frequently, but you’ll usually find foie gras somewhere on the menu, venison, mushrooms, braised fare, rack of lamb, a myriad of seafood dishes, Indian threadfish, accompanied by fresh herbs, vegetables and fruit grown on resort and the island. At one time or another you’ll find specialties such as pancetta-wrapped roasted Lana'i venison loin, seared Hawaiian snapper with gingered crab, moi fish (in old Hawaii reserved only for royalty and commoners could be put to death for eating it) on spaghetti squash and asparagus, hamachi fish (like yellowtail used in sushi) on flavored mashed potatoes & leeks, covered with kumquats.
Hopefully you don’t have to think about price, can order the perfect wines to accompany your meal, appetizers and one of the sublime deserts like 3-part chocolate sampler with cake, mousse, and chocolate crème brûlée or a pineapple tart with a sauce that includes vanilla and rum. Reservations essential. Jacket required. 565-4580, 6-9:30pm.
Henry Clay’s Rotisserie (Hotel Lana’i)
My award for the most remarkable transformation of a lodging and its restaurant in the outer islands goes to the Hotel Lana’i and Henry Clay’s Rotisserie. Elsewhere I’ve said that, even though the rooms are small, this inn situated under beautiful Cook Pines, built by Dole in the 1920s, has plenty of island and plantation-era character and charm. I visited before and after this historic landmark was renovated in the early 1990s, and all it lacked then was a guiding spirit and management hand, and a restaurant with the right chef and cuisine. Having visited many New England country inns, I new that, ideally, owner, chef and manager all should come in the same talented person.
Chef Henry Clay Richardson, assisted by his extended family (parents, brother and sister-in-law, from Louisiana), fulfills this role to perfection. No, I never expected the Lana’i Inn to have a restaurant built around a customized rotisserie that produced specialties like Ragin’ Cajun Shrimp and Roasted Loin of Venison.
For diners who want a very special and yet more affordable meal than the resort dining rooms, Henry Clay's Rotisseriewill not disappoint. Some visitors have even compared Chef Richardson’s restaurant to (gasp!) the Formal Dining Room at the Lodge.
Just as the Formal Dining Room has its own stratospheric variety of “American Country,” the Rotisserie serves Louisiana-style ribs, Cajun-style shrimp, gumbo and the fiery Ragin Cajun Clay's shrimp that Chef Richardson also calls "American Country." Like the Lodge, he includes island venison and locally caught fish. The dining room also has a fireplace and paintings by local artists. But comparisons between the Formal Dining Room and the Rotisserie stop there, and with a very positive twist. Henry Clay Richardson, a New Orleans native, has drawn on his Louisiana roots to ingeniously and successfully bring together French country, Cajun, Hawaiian regional, and other influences, especially in the preparation of meats (rabbit, duck, quail, venison, osso buco, beef, or chicken) spit-roasted on the rotisserie, but also, without the rotisserie’s magic, exquisite wood-fired pizzas, fresh catch (in lemon butter caper sauce), eggplant Creole, and a wonderful variety of other memorable dishes.
The laid-back and comfortable atmosphere of the Rotisserie extends to the granite bar and outdoor patio, perfect for talking story with friends and Chef/innkeeper Richardson. When it comes to a place for a drink in the evening, you’ll like the ambiance of the Hotel’s bar as much as its restaurant. 828 Lana’i Ave., 565-7211, 5:30-9:30pm
Hulopoe Court
Hulopoe is quite casual compared to the Ihilani Restaurant. The restaurant's ocean views are marvelous, upstaging it’s décor which is as eclectic as its menu that does an excellent job with local meat and vegetable ingredients. For breakfast, in addition to an ample cold and hot buffet, the taro and macadamia nut pancakes are really good. The breakfast menu also includes more exotic dishes like duck hash with poached eggs and green onion hollandaise. The dinner menu is essentially Pacific Rim cuisine. The Challenge at ManeleClubhouse offers a very nice breakfast and lunch menu as alternative to the Hulopoe. Manele Bay Hotel, 7-11am and 6-9:30pm
After a day in one of the most beautiful spots in Hawaii and the world, perhaps playing golf on one of the best golf courses in Hawaii, hiking or trail riding out of one of the best stables in North America, the Manele Bay Hotel's Ihilani dining room offers a perfect end to a Perfect Day. You can chose to dine on the terrace overlooking the ocean or indoors (you can guess our preference).
As people who love exquisitely delicious food, our culinary heart was broken when Executive chef Edwin Goto left to oversee the restaurants at the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel on the Big Island. A James Beard award nominee, transferred several years ago from the Lodge at Koele, Chef Goto brought with him the kind of inspired creativity that won his restaurant at the Lodge Condé Nast Traveler’s award in 1994 as Hawaii’s top restaurant and other well-deserved accolades and awards.
Happily for guests at the Manele Bay and the Lodge, and non-guests as well, the open-air terrace Ihilani Restaurant carries on the tradition of Mediterranean cuisine prepared now under the eye of chef Mark Tsuchiyama, formerly chef with the Sheraton Maui. The new chef and his menu provide very delicious surprises: seafood dishes like ravioli made with fresh Dungeness crab or poached lobster; local fish like opah served on a ragout of white beans flavored with pancetta and fresh thyme; farmed-raised pheasant roasted or otherwise served with fois gras or a Madeira truffle sauce; and other French Mediterranean tastes and flavors in an abundance of special dishes and a prix fixe meal, completed with a memorable cheese and wine course. Reservations essential. 565-2296, 6-9:30pm.
The superb view from the terrace tables at the Challenge at Manele
Clubhouseencompass Kaho’olawe, Maui and, on a clear day, even the far off peaks of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa on the Big Island. This great view makes pupus and drinks at sunset our favorite time of day at the Clubhouse. The Clubhouse lunch menu is casual and perfectly adequate for typical light fare at golf courses, from salads and burgers to some specialty sandwiches, fish and chips and other hot and cold dishes. Dinner at the Clubhouse is a candles and tablecloths affair but the Clubhouse is not open every night. Lunch 11am-5pm, dinner 6-9:30, 565-2230
Pele’s Other Garden
Mark and Barbara Zigmond's deli and bistro is not at all like your typical deli nor should we expect any eatery on Lana’i to resemble one elsewhere in Hawaii (although this place would fit perfectly in Pa’ia on Maui). This picturesque yellow restaurant with green trim and its outdoor patio with umbrella tables surrounded by tall shade trees and flowers is a perfect fit for this health-oriented gathering place. Expect to get your “overstuffed” sandwiches (including tasty meatballs)
and Italian hoagies made with fresh local produce on tasty whole-wheat, rye, sourdough, or French bread, baked on the island. Have the Zigmond’s pack up an “off-road” picnic basket lunch (for two or more).
The interior of Pele’s is really charming, especially for dinner served on dishes, with pretty tablecloths and cloth napkins. Bring your own wine. Behind the yellow plantation building facade is a real Italian bistro-style dining room that, in addition to its savory pizzas, serves a variety of delicious pastas (try the butterfly pasta with garlic shrimp), organic veggies and salads. The menu also includes black-bean burritos, quesadillas, roasted red peppers, and stuffed grape leaves. 811 Houston St., Lana’i City, 565-9628, Mon-Sat 9:30am-3pm, 5-9pm. (Credit cards accepted)
After a morning at the hotel’s pool, Hulopoe Beach, hiking or other activities, a poolside lunch at the Poole Grille under a beach umbrella will make the burgers, sandwiches and salads taste incredibly good, and they are just that. Caesar salad with shrimp, marinated grilled vegetables with goat cheese or other salads are all that you’ll need for lunch. You don’t have to be a guest to eat here. 565-7700, 11am-5pm, 6-9:30pm, Manele Bay Hotel.
When locals come home from afar, one of the first places they return to for breakfast or lunch is Tanigawa's that has been serving steaming bowls of saimin and the same simple, no-frills, greasy food as long as most people can remember, even in its previous incarnation, S&T Properties. The saimin is good, the sticky teriyaki is really good and the hamburgers are even better. At least once, come to Tanigawa’s for fried rice or a short stack, an omelet or just ham and eggs. 419 7th at Jacaranda, 6:30am-1pm.
Located next to the Formal Dining Room in the Lodge at Koele, the first thing you see as you enter The Terrace is English Gardens and a pine forest through full-length glass walls. You’re likely to prefer to sit outside, on the terrace, of course, and have something very special for breakfast like scrambled eggs with Maine lobster and mascarpone cheese or eggs Polihua (with blue-crab cakes and watercress-tomato hollandaise) or something as simple as waffles. When you have breakfast on The Terrace, you’ll know that this a very special restaurant, which will prepare you for dishes at other times of day like Lana’i venison pastrami at lunch and seafood, venison, pork and vegetable dishes for dinner. All of the dishes served at The Terrance are several notches above local restaurants, like polenta "pizza" with roasted eggplant, leeks, portobellos, and goat cheese. Lodge at Koele 6:30 am-10pm, 465-4580.
Dreams Come True B&B
First of all, we cannot be more enthusiastic about a B&B on Lana’i than Michael and Susan Hunter’s completely renovated plantation house, with 4 bedrooms and 4 attached baths, all Italian marble with jacuzzi tubs, nestled in the midst of a subtropical garden full of papaya, banana, lemon and avocado trees. The entire house sleeps 10 and is available for $380 per night or $2280 per week, ideal for wedding groups, family reunions, gatherings of women, or just large families with active parents, children, grandchildren, etc. Michael and Susan Hunter also rent out houses for $250-$350 a night in Lana'i City: the 3-bedroom Jasmine Garden, 2-bedroom Pink House, and the 4-bedroom Lana’i Avenue Plantation House.
If anyone wants a massage, Susan just happens to be a trained massage therapist and provides in-house Shiatsu and Swedish massage for $50 an hour. Need a 4WD vehicle? They’ll arrange a rental. Breakfast usually consists of freshly baked bread with homemade jellies and jams, tropical fruit, juice, and coffee. Michael and Susan will be happy to show you how to use their B&B as a base for touring and activities in all directions. Hosts Susan and Michael are jewelers and have a studio on the premises. No room phones, no room TVs, no smoking. 4 rooms, 547 12th St., Lana’i City, 565-6961, 800-566-6961.
Hale O Lana’i
A simple, homey, two-bedroom home in Lana’i City. 405 Lana’i Ave., Lana’i City.
Built in 1923 to house visiting plantation executives, this 11-room inn brings you back to the plantation-era where the trade-off for quaintness, charm and character, ceiling fans and Hawaiian quilts is small guest rooms and lanais with pleasing views of the garden and Lana’i City shared with the room next door. The Lana’i Hotel also rents a small, one-bedroom cottage. Guests can use the complimentary shuttle to the Lodge at Koele, the Manele Bay Hotel, and golf courses where they get the same low rates given to guests at these two resorts. Rates are $98-$115 double, $150 cottage double. A continental breakfast is included in the rate. (800-795-7211, 565-7211).
One of the only luxury vacation rentals on Lana’i, the size of this house (3000 s.f., maximum capacity of 10 people) and price suggest a group or large family gathering. Keomoku Rd., 565-7519, 888-565-6106.
The Lodge at Koele obviously offers a unique and completely different resort experience in Hawaii since it sits like a grand estate in Lana’i’s central highlands rather than at the shoreline. In addition to short trips to Lana’i City, a regular shuttle transports guests the 8 miles to Hulopo’e Bay and The Manele Bay Hotel for snorkeling and scuba diving, sailing, kayaking, beach walks, golf at The Challenge at Manele, and more dining and spa choices. The service is superb at every turn without being stuffy or overwhelming. You’ll appreciate the warm, welcoming Lana’i touch from the moment you arrive.
Huge stone fireplaces are surrounded by appropriately overstuffed furniture in the luxurious and stately Great Hall with its beamed ceiling, rugs and Pacific art and artifacts. A library, music room and trophy room enhance the feeling of a great estate. A classically grand porch with inviting wicker chairs offers beautiful daytime and sunset views and provides a perfect for setting formal tea in the afternoon. Clay shooting, lawn bowling, croquet, golfing on an 18-hole executive putting green, horseback riding, archery and other such activities all are what you would expect of this luxurious mountain retreat.
Its 102 deluxe rooms on 21-acres are surrounded by groves of Norfolk pines, banyan, eucalyptus, and jacarandas, and landscaped with a lovely formal Japanese garden and pond. Pathways wind through the estate for peaceful and romantic walks. Whereas the public areas exude turn-of-the-century elegance, the room décor gives the faux feeling of an early Hawaiian plantation house complete with carved four-poster beds.
A spectacular mountain golf course designed by golf pro Greg Norman with Ted Robinson as the architect awaits guests and visitors with forested green hills and steep valley gorges. Many visitors to Koele come for the 18-hole championship The Experience at Koele, both a wonderful golfing and nature experience, and then discover that the resort itself is the best that they have ever experienced.
The Lodge and its outstanding Formal Dining Room are formal at night but informal by day, and The Terrace restaurant is casual all day and evening. One of the best aspects of Koele is that you’re only 20 minutes by complementary shuttle from the sister Manele Bay Hotel and its wonderful dining choices or picnics on the Hulopoe Beach. 800-321-4666, 565-7300.
Located on a bluff and terraced down the hillside, the Manele Bay Hotel overlooks the beautiful blue crescent of one of Hawaii’s great beaches and marine preserves, Hulopoe Beach, and enjoys spectacular views of Lana’i’s South coastline. The Hotel’s combination of Mediterranean- and Asian-style architecture works very well along the hillside. Every room and its semi-private lanai have some view of the ocean. Wings of the U-shaped hotel are separated and surrounded by five lush “theme” gardens, with waterfalls, lotus ponds, and a stream.
In the hotel murals of Hawaiian history, other Asian and local artwork, and the design of and furnishings in the lobby create a warm, informal and comfortable feeling and, at the same time, elegant luxury without any ostentatiousness. Without upgrading to an expensive butler suite (would you really want a full-time butler in paradise?), you still get a very spacious room and bathroom plus ample closet space.
Besides a magnificent beach, the fresh water pool is popular, especially around lunchtime when the Pool Grille is open. Several years ago, the spa was given a major renovation and upgraded in services so even Koele’s guests come down to use it. The spa and fitness center are welcome supplements for guests who mainly intend to get their cardiovascular activity on the beach, snorkeling and diving, on the golf course and tennis courts, hiking and exploring on foot, horseback and 4WD safaris, and other outdoor activities.
Guests at Manele Bay are delighted to use the facilities at The Lodge at Koele and shuttles run between the two hotels every half-hour, providing a “designated driver” at cocktail hour and dinner time. The excellent formal and relatively casual restaurants of Manele Bay (Ihilani, Hulopoe Court and Pool Grille), Koele’s Formal Dining Room and The Terrace, and Henry Clay’s Rotisserie at the Lana’i Hotel provide a very satisfying range of fine dining experiences, which you can supplement with a meal Pele’s other Garden or the Blue Ginger. (800-321-4666, 565-3868).
When planning Perfect Days on Lana’i, consider timing your stay at one of the two resorts, Manele Bay and Koele, to coincide with very special artist and celebrity programs at the resorts. In addition to providing the pinnacle of luxury and comfort, these resorts have organized one of the world’s premier programs to enable guests to interact with visiting artists, not unlike similar programs on high-end cruise ships. The Lana’i Visiting Artist Program has brought acclaimed authors, chefs, musicians, artists and artisans and others to informal sessions and social time at the Lodge at Koele and Manele Bay Hotel.
Okamoto Realty
Okamoto Realty handles most properties for sale on the island, including timeshares at Manele Bay and the Lodge at Koele. Any vacation rentals for rent usually will be listed with Linda Kay Okamoto. 7301 Lana’i Ave. (800-505-2624, 565-7519).
Except for boutiques at the Lodge at Koele and Manele Bay Hotel that sell conventional high-end gifts and sundries, the main streets of Lana'i City are the island's only (and best) places to shop. The general stores (which don’t call themselves “general stores”) in town like Lana’i Family Store (443 7th St.) and International Food & Clothing (833 Ilimi St.) have a bit more déjà vu charm these days than Hasegawa’s in Hana. Stores are closed on Sunday, during lunch, and after 5pm. The year 2000 was some kind of turning point for Lana’i City when it got its first boutique, The Local Gentry (390B 7th St., right near Gifts from Aloha), selling, among other clothing items, upscale resort clothes. What next?
Across from Dole Park and next to the Blue Ginger Café, and with the help of their three children, Phoenix and Kimberly Dupree's store sells hand-painted clothing, stylish hats and hatbands, alohawear, Hawaiiana books, ceramics, dolls and an impressive selection of art by more than 40 local and other Hawaiian artists, including ceramic ware, raku pottery, hand-blown glass, watercolor prints and sculpted wooden bowls (for example, a beautiful koa vase by Andrew Sopko). An informative and enjoyable book on Lana’i to buy in this shop and take back to your hotel is Lana’i: The Elusive Hawaiian Island – The One the Captain Cook Missed ($9.95), written by a Lana’i resident and teacher, Anderson Duane Black. In addition, this shop sells certified organic Rare Hawaiian White Honey, jams and jellies (Guava Jam, Pineapple Mango, Lilikoi Jam, Banana Jam and more) by Lana’i's Fabrao House (from an enterprising fifth grade teacher on Lana’i with a big back yard full of fruit trees), and a large variety of made-on-Maui soaps and bath products. If you get to Lana’i City, don’t miss Gifts with Aloha. Mon-Sat., 9:30am-6pm, 363 7th St., Dole Park, Lana’i City, 565-6589.
Another place to find paintings and crafts by local artists including Norfolk Pine Bowls and ukuleles. You can’t miss the large yellow house at 758 Queen St., Lana’i City, 565-7815.
A non-profit coop of local artists and citizens committed to the arts, the Lana’i Art Program offers art classes, and has a gift shop that sells unique Lana'i handicrafts. 339 7th Ave.
Lana’i Marketplace
It’s worth the effort to time your trip to Lana’i so as to be in Dole Square on Saturday morning, 7am-noon for the Lana’i Marketplace. Besides purchasing any of the handcrafts or food items, some of which you can find at Gifts with Aloha, the best part of the morning is meeting a friendly and fascinating collection of Lana’ians.
Mike does a wonderful job of capturing in oils many of the most distinctive and beautiful aspects of Lana’i and Hawaii. His studio and gallery is near Dole Park, the intersection of Jacaranda St. and 7th Ave., next to the Post Office. 565-7122, Tues-Sat 11am-5pm, and by appointment.
Shop here for even if nothing ails you. Pele's Garden is the Eden of the island for health products, with an assortment of vitamins, herbs, homeopathics, supplements, natural health and beauty products, health-related reference books, natural and organic groceries, organic baby foods, organic seeds, and natural health and beauty aids. Visit Pele’s Garden when you stop for a meal at Pele's Other Garden. 811 Houston St., 565-9629.
You'll find Lana'i crafts here such as pine-tree bowls and flower-dyed gourds alongside prints, T-shirts, and tropical jellies in this eclectic place that also serves cappuccino and espresso. (We hear rumors of a coming pizza bar?) 408 8th St., 565-6587.