Wailuku is the Maui County seat, gateway to historic and beautiful Iao Valley and hiking at Waihe’e Valley and Ridge. A quaint town with storefronts and shops right out of the 1950s, Wailuku provides some of the best antique hunting on the island, a collection of some of Maui’s best budget Asian and other restaurants, and home to the Bailey House Museum and Gift Shop.
Wailuku also provides an exceptionally good transitional experience from the resorts of South and West Maui to the funky North Shore that is somewhat more like Wailuku in terms of look, spirit and lifestyle. To browse on Market and Main streets and eat any meal in Wailuku is to move gradually through a very pleasant
retro-time zone and, thereby, to be better prepared for enjoying North Shore and Upcountry lifestyles.
Waihe’e Valley
iMountains and valleys around Wailuku offer some of the few ways to see the West Maui Mountains on foot. A walled amphitheater carved by the Waihe’e River rises thousands of feet to one of the wettest spots on earth. The trail up the Waihe’e Valley to this great wall of Maui and its waterfalls crosses two photogenic Swinging Bridges in the dense subtropical forest that add touches of adventure to this hike.
Waihe’e Ridge
Hike to an overlook of Waihe’e Valley or climb further to view the windward coast and a vista of West Maui’s highest mountains. Before returning to Wailuku, take a very short sidetrip toward the ocean to the Kukuipuka Heiau and its sweeping coastal views.
Morning (by 8am) is the best time for a trip to Iao Valley, hikes in Waihe’e Valley and especially up Waihe’e Ridge before the clouds roll in. Hiking around Wailuku is another good reason for finding vacation rentals in the nearby North Shore or perhaps in one of the few in Wailuku. The Old Wailuku Inn at Ulupono is one of the best B&Bs on the island. (See the Maui Directory of Vacation Rentals)
Visitors interested in Hawaii’s history will want to visit the Halekii and Pihanakalani Heiau. Some of these ruins on a hill overlooking central Maui and Haleakala are at least 500 years old. Kamehameha the Great made human sacrifices here to prepare for his conquest of Maui that resulted in the battle of Iao Valley. Built using stones from the ‘Iao Stream, Halekii("House of Images") has a flat grassy top and Pihanakalani("gathering place of supernatural beings") has a pyramid-shape.
To get to these heiau from Wailuku, turn north from Main Street onto Market Street. Turn right onto Mill Street and follow it to the end; make a left on Lower Main Street; follow Lower Main until it ends at Waiehu Beach Road (Hwy. 340), and turn left; turn left again on Kuhio Street and again at the first left onto Hea Place; and drive through the gates and look for the Hawaii Visitor's Bureau (HVB) marker.
Restaurants and eateries in Wailuku, more than historical sightseeing, make the town an excellent destination for people traveling on a moderate budget who really like to try local cooking and ethnic food. Plan to start a Perfect Day, visiting Iao Valley or on Waihe’e hiking trails, with break in Wailuku. Indulge in delicious brick-oven baked bread, buttery brioches and other baked items at the Maui Bake Shop (2092 Vineyard Street at Church, open 6am daily and 7am on Saturday). While you’re having breakfast, owners Jose and Claire Fujii-Krall will put together a picnic lunch for you (including not-to-be-missed desserts like white-chocolate macadamia-nut cheesecake). Tasty Crust (1770 Mill Street), a landmark and local favorite for more than 50 years, serves good hotcakes and other breakfast dishes.
For lunches and dinner in Wailuku we recommend: Bi-Won (Korean), Main Street Bistro, Mike’s Restaurant (Chinese), Shakalaka Fish & Chips (fish & seafood), Siam Thai, Sam Sato’s (Saimin), Saeng’s Thai Cuisine, A Saigon Café, Tokyo Tei, and Wei-Wei BBQ & Noodle House (Chinese).
A Saigon Café (1792 Main) is a must-dining destination to complete a Perfect Day. Vietnamese noodle soups are popular at A Saigon Café along with a fantastic variety of other seafood, chicken and meat dishes including make-your-own rice-paper wraps with various fillings that you dip in a tangy sauce. At least once before leaving Maui, try Saimin, broth with noodles, a sprinkling of green onions, roast pork and fish cake.
One of the best places on Maui for Saimin is Sam Sato’s (hidden in an industrial area near the center of town at 1750 Wili Pa Loop (look for the Post Office, turn right, and the office of the Maui Visitors Bureau on your left on Wili Pa Loop). For those of who love Thai food, Wailuku has several of the best choices on the island for Thai chicken, seafood and vegetarian dishes: Saeng’s Thai Cuisine (on Vineyard St.) and Siam Thai (on Market St.).
In Kahului, more than a dozen ethnic (Japanese, Thai, creative Mexican and Latin), vegetarian and other restaurants provide delicious and mostly inexpensive lunches and dinners: Ba-Le (Vietnamese), Bangkok Cuisine, Dragon Dragon Chinese Restaurant, Ichiban Restaurant & Sushi Bar, Las Piñatas, Mañana Garage (Latin American), Marco’s Grill & Deli (Italian), Good Earth (Vegetarian) and Wow-Wee Café.