Maui is the Best

Maui’s motto – “Maui no ka oi’” -- “Maui is the best” – is hard to dispute. The better that you get to know Maui, using Perfect Days as your guide, the more you’ll be inclined to believe that:

• beaches are even better than you expected and many are more beautiful than you have ever seen anywhere in Hawaii;
• air and water are as clean as any place you’ve ever visited and actually cleaner than any of them;
• most of the island’s scenic shorelines on the South, Northwest, North and East coasts, and mountain scenery still is either free of or at least not seriously damaged by local or tourism development;
• moderated by trade winds, the island’s equable climate is marvelous in its two seasons, summer and winter, which vary little in temperature and precipitation in the warmest (August-September) and coolest (January-February) months;
• winter storms in the Pacific create a large surf on Maui’s beautiful north shore, that surfers love but, unlike Kauai and the Big Island, hurricanes and tsunamis are very rare;
• daytime and evening activities on land, in and on the ocean, including those for adventuresome travelers, are more abundant than you had hoped for, but it’s also can be very easy to simply relax and vegetate;
• restaurants in every price category and section of the island will far surpass your expectations for quality and variety of meals;
• people celebrating special occasions, like weddings, vows, honeymoons and anniversaries or family reunions can have fantastic days and evenings customized to please even the most demanding people, without necessarily spending a great deal of money;
• dozens of hotels, condos and villas cover every accommodation need, desire and fantasy within four completely different kinds of resort destinations – Wailea, Ka’anapali, Kapalua and Hana;
• a huge number and variety of attractive vacation rentals of every type and price exist in every district of the island, including hundreds of affordable choices for budget-minded travelers.
• In addition to Maui’s attractions, fly 33 miles across the Alenuihaha Channel to the Big Island and see Kilauea volcano by air or fly to Molokai and tour Kalaupapa Peninsula or fly to Lanai for a round of golf;

Weather

The weather in Hana usually is as warm, calm and idyllic as its reputation but sometimes the trades blow or rain pours down. The temperature on the House of the Sun, Haleakala, ranges between 35º and 60º, which means its cold, especially when the wind blows before sunrise. Expect Ma’alaea, at the south end of the Central Valley, to be one of the windiest places on Maui along with Olowalu, between Ma’alaea and Lahaina, that catches winds coming through a gap all the way from Iao Valley.

Protected from the trade winds, Lahaina will be warmer than other parts of the island. The winds increase from Ka’anapali northward to Kapalua which makes the northwest coast somewhat cooler but also brings more light rain.

Winds bouncing off the north face of Haleakala make Kahului and nearby Kanaha, Spreckelsville, Baldwin and Ho’okipa beaches on the North Shore the windiest parts of the island, perfect for windsurfing and kitesurfing.

Don’t assume anything about the weather in any part of Maui and especially Haleakala. Check http://www.hawaiiweathertoday.com/mwt/mwt_haleakala.html
where you’ll be able to get the latest weather forecast and a link to Haleakala’s web cam (see http://banana.ifa.hawaii.edu/crater/ and call 877-5111).

Mountainous Maui

The 727-square miles of Maui mainly consist of two shield volcanoes -- 10,023-foot-high Haleakala and 5,788-foot-high Puu Kukui -- separated by the Central Valley:. Maui was formed by these two volcanoes, one preceding the other, with overlapping lava flows in the Central Valley. Lava flowed down from Haleakala, the younger volcano (somewhere between 1.5 and 2 million years old), and up against the West Maui volcano.

The peak of the West Maui mountains, Pu’u Kukui, receives almost 400 inches of rain a year. Over eons, streams flowing from the West Maui Mountains covered these lava flows with sediment hundreds of feet deep that formed the Central Valley, a fertile alluvial plain.

Haleakala covers 77% of the island and an even larger proportion of Maui’s 120-mile coastline surrounds the volcano. The summit of Haleakala, which is not a crater (Haleakala never blew its top) but rather a huge oval depression (caldera), slopes down along three major rifts – north, east and southwest. Erosion created these deep valleys. Two awesome valleys – Kaupo and Ke’anae – meet at the summit and are important parts of Haleakala’s scenery.

The Kaupo Gap is part of the southwest rift zone that you drive through if you return to Kula (Upcountry) from Hana via Kaupo (see Perfect Day #38) or travel to Hana from Ulupalakua down Hwy. 31 through stark volcanic landscape past beautiful Nu’u Beach and Kaupo. Ke’anae Valley and the Ko’olau Gap rise above Ke’anae Peninsula and the village of Wailua along the Hana Highway.

Making the Most of Haleakala

About three-fourths of the island of Maui is dominated and defined by the presence, summit and slopes of the great dormant volcano, Haleakala. (Haleakala also extends 20,000 feet beneath sealevel.) Almost half of Maui’s land is above 2000’ on the West Maui Mountains and Haleakala. Whereas the West Maui Mountains have no human settlements at this altitude, the slopes of Haleakala – Upcountry – are dotted with cattle ranches, vegetable and flower farms, vacation rentals and small settlements.

The beautiful lava coast, golden and black sand beaches on the South Shore from La Pérouse to Ma’alaea, are part of a narrow shelf of land between the bottom of Haleakala and the ocean. In addition to sandy, rocky, lava or pebbled beaches, irregular shoreline and the gradual or steep slopes of Haleakala, Maui has 29 miles of sea cliffs, mostly around the North and East Shore from Pa’ia to Hana but also along the Northwest Coast from Napili and Kapalua to Wailuku.

At the highest elevations of Haleakala, few plants can grow in the harsh alpine/aeolian environment where rainfall rapidly sinks into porous ground. Notably the lovely Silversword (anhinahina) survives. Subalpine shrubland and grasses between the summit and forests below feed many bird species, including the Hawaiian Goose (nene). Windward slopes covered with rainforests are blanketed with 120 to 400 inches of rain annually. ‘Ohia trees flourish at upper levels mixed with koa below.

Kipahulu Valley running through upper and lower ecosystems is filled with incredibly diverse vegetation and rare birds. ‘Ohe’o Pools in the lower zone are fed by hundreds of inches of rain from above, sometime propelling torrents of water downstream. Rolling grasslands and forests surround the pools. Dry forest zones cover leeward slopes of Haleakala but have been greatly reduced in size by grazing, fires and other causes.

In all of its climatic and ecological zones, Haleakala is one of the world’s most fascinating realms for exploration, adventure and sightseeing on foot, by bike, on an ATV and horseback, sailing on ziplines, and most fully by helicopter.

Dawn at Haleakala’s summit is truly a magical experience immortalized in Hawaiian mythology (demigod Mauilassoing and extracting a promise from the sun to move more slowly through the sky so that it would dry his mother’s tapa cloth). Watching the sunrise over Haleakala has become the single biggest attraction on Maui. Depending on viewing conditions, you’ll know why as the sun’s rays pierce the early morning darkness, spread over Haleakala’s awesome crater, light up the rest of Maui, the neighboring islands of Lana’i, Moloka’i, and Kaho’olawe, and then Moana Loa and Mauna Kea on the Big Island.

Hiking Haleakala

Haleakala has 36 miles of well-marked hiking trails through a crater measuring 7 miles long, 2.5 miles wide, and 3,000-feet deep. Several walks and short hikes in Haleakala National Park can be done in just one day. Most visitors, however, will be satisfied by the short walk to White Hill next to the Visitor Center or hikes on short trails from mountaintop parking to Red Hill and its glass-enclosed lookout, Hosmer Grove, Leleiwi Overlook, Kalahaku Overlook, possibly the Halemauu Crater Rim Overlook (2 mile roundtrip), and part of Sliding Sands Trail.

Half- and full-day guided tours through the crater are available as an alternative to self-guided hiking. On the southern slopes of Haleakala, join longer climbs lead by knowledgeable guides up lower Kipahulu Valley (upper Kipahulu Valley is a scientific reserve closed to the public), past Waimoku Falls to beautiful Waimoku Falls, or more than 7 miles up Kaupo Gap on a trail above Kaupo Store to Haleakala’s crater.

A new, exciting way to experience terrain on the slopes of Haleakala, Skyline Eco-Adventures offers a guided hike through an upcountry forest and then sailing in a seat-harness across one or more gulches in Haleakala Ranch using a super-safe, stainless steel zipline. (See http://www.tombarefoot.com/maui/hiking.html)

Cycling Haleakala

You have several choices for experiencing the exhilaration of cycling down from and around the summit of Haleakala on asphalt or trail switchbacks, through forests and pasturelands, with unforgettable views opening up along the way. Join a cycling group or simply arrange for delivery of a mountain bike (and helmet, gloves, backpack, rain/wind gear) at the volcano’s summit for a self-paced ride down the mountain. All riders must be at least 12-14 years old and 4’ 10”-5’ tall (different activity-providers have slightly different age and height requirements for children). 

The Haleakala bicycle trip that you’ve heard most about is a breathtaking sunrise or early morning guided bicycle tour on a beach cruiser (with drum breaks) down from the summit (10,023-ft.). Most guided bike tours descend Haleakala Hwy. (378) and head north on Hwy. 377 to Makawao town and then head down Baldwin Avenue to Pa’ia, a distance of 38 miles. (See a point-to-point bike route itinerary and photos of highlight attractions from the summit to Pa’ia: http://bikingmaui.com/bikepage1.html)
 
After a continental breakfast at the top of Haleakala, you’ll have a picnic brunch at a Kula flower farm or in Pa’ia. Another type of cycling tour, Aloha Bike Tours, descends Hwy. 378 and turns left (instead of right to Makawao) and heads east on Hwy. 377 and Hwy. 37 through Keokea to Tedeschi’s Winery in the Ulupalakua Ranch for a deli lunch and visit to the wine-tasting room.

As an alternative to a downhill ride from the volcano’s summit, starting at 7,000-ft. experienced mountain bikers can cycle along trails through ohio, eucalyptus, redwood and koa rainforests in Polipoli State Forest on Haleakala’s slopes and have lunch streamside. In addition to biking through the Polipoli State Forest, you can take a helicopter ride over Haleakala’s crater, the dramatic valleys of West Maui, and the rainforests of Hana and Southeast Maui. (See http://www.tombarefoot.com/maui/bike_maui.html)

ATV Tours

The south and east sides of Haleakala are covered by wilderness and ranchlands. The only ways to see this incredible backcountry terrain is on an ATV or horseback. Maui ATV Tours on 20,000-acre Ulupalakua Ranch and Haleakala ATV tours on 30,000- acre Haleakala Ranch take you on 2- and 4-hour ATV tours through scenic pastures around these working cattle ranches with great views over the South Coast and neighboring islands. Morning rides include a continental breakfast and afternoon rides start with a picnic lunch. Drivers have to be 16 years or older but Haleakala ATV provides rides in jeeps and on an 8-wheeled ARGO amphibious vehicle for guests 5-15 years old. (See http://www.tombarefoot.com/maui/specialty_maui.html)

Horseback Tours

People who love horses, both experienced and novice riders, can spend days riding and exploring southern, eastern and northern flanks of Haleakala. You’ll see rain forests, streams, waterfalls and pools for swimming, pastures, and wonderful views riding from Makena to Tedeschi’s Winery in Ulupalakua on the southern flanks of Haleakala, up Hana Highlands to magnificent waterfalls above Ohe’o Gulch in lower Kipahulu, through Ulupalakua and Haleakala Ranchlands, and through the rainforests of Haiku on the North Shore.

Pony Express Tours on Haleakala Ranch offers 1, 2 and 2.5 hour guided rides through the largest working cattle ranch on Maui (2500 head of Hereford/Santa Gertrudis cattle), a 3-4 hour round-trip ride and a 12-hour ride to Kapalaoa Cabin in Haleakala Crater. The scenery is breathtaking, the guides knowledgeable and riding on the ranch or in the Crater is fantastic.

Peter, Chris and Lynn Baldwin’s Piiholo Ranch offer rides from their family ranch on the edge of Makawao through some of the prettiest countryside you’ll see on Maui.

Start out about a mile past ‘Ohe’o Gulch in Kipahulu and ride with ‘Ohe’o Stables and a small group (6 or less) up to Pipiwai Lookout and spectacular Waimoku Falls (bring towel and bathing suit for swimming in pools below the falls). See the stunning beauty of Haleakala National Park’s Kipahulu Valley (See http://www.tombarefoot.com/maui/horseback_maui.html).

Helicopter Sightseeing

Only a fraction of vast Haleakala can be seen while hiking, cycling, horseback riding, riding ATVs and driving vehicles. Most of Haleakala only can be seen from the air. Seeing Haleakala (and other parts of the Hawaiian Islands) from the air is a thrilling, totally different kind of experience than sightseeing at ground level. Helicopters can’t fly over Haleakala’s crater, but you will be able to see over the rim.

Most helicopter tours around Haleakala will ask your preferences for points of interest and take you, for example, over Hana, Hana and Kipahulu rainforests, Ohe’o Gulch, and around the backside over Kaupo. Some helicopter companies offer a stop on the beach at Kaupo or a combination of helicopter sightseeing and a full-day on the ground around Hana.

Take a helicopter tour early in your stay on Maui in order to orient yourself to the island. Start early in the morning with a mini-circle tour that includes beautiful Iao Valley, Olowalu Valley, and the Northwest Coast. If possible, also include the incredible sea cliffs of Moloka’i in your tour. (See http://www.tombarefoot.com/maui/heli_maui.html)

West Maui Mountains

For most visitors the West Maui Mountains remain a scenic backdrop while driving highways and a mystery except for an excursion to Iao Valley State Park to see Iao Needle standing 1200’ over the floor of beautiful Iao Valley. Usually filled to overflowing with cars and tour buses by midday, Iao Valley State Park includes Kepaniwai Heritage Gardens and the Hawaii Nature Center. The viewing platform for Iao Needle is only a short walk away. It takes a helicopter to get up close to the “Wall of Tears,” second wettest spot on earth, where as many as 17 waterfalls flow at once, without any sign of tributaries.

With the exception of Iao Valley, the mountains of West Maui provide only a few trails for exploration:

• Waihe’e Ridge and Waihe’e Valley Trails;
• Lahaina Pali East and Lahaina Pali West that connect the coast south of Olowalu to Ma’alaea over a mountain ridge;
• Launiupoko Valley Trail up Kai Hele Ku Road to Wailau Place and then up to and beyond a reservoir for excellent views;
• the dirt road inland from the Olowalu General Store to petroglyphs on an old volcanic cinder cone that becomes a trail (difficult to find and follow) into Olowalu Valley;
• at the top of Lahainaluna Road in Lahaina, past the Sugar Mill and Lahainaluna High School, through sugar cane fields past the gravesite of Hawaii’s first great scholar, David Malo, and up to panoramic views of the coast;
• trails leading to Eke Crater, north of Kapalua, in the Kahakuloa Game Management Area and Waikalai Plateau, reached from the Waikalai Game Management Road.

The rest of West Maui is inaccessible except by helicopter. For example, a helicopter tour is the only way to see Pu’u Kukui, the spectacular ridge in Iao Valley, beautiful Honokohau Valley, the full extent of Launiupoko and Olowalu Valleys, and other pristine mountain areas.